Rustic Bolivia: It's the national theme

I left Salta, Argentina on the 27th of June. Miranda, Diana, and I hopped on a midnight bus to La Quiaca, the border town of Argentina and Bolivia. We froze. There was ice and frost on the inside of the bus windows when we got to La Quiaca at 7ish in the morning. We then basically walked across the border into La Villazón (Bolivian boarder town), flashing our Bolivian visas, and freezing our bums off. We walked bleary eyed to the bus station and bought tickets to Tupiza, where our 4 day southwestern Bolivia.

Walking across the boarder, there is a distinct difference between Argentina and Bolivia. Once you cross the boarder toward Bolivia, it's like the rainbow exploded all over the people. The women walk around slightly hunched over, carrying brightly patterned blanket-bags. Basically they are huge squares of tela, cloth, that the women tie together and sling over their backs. They carry everything in there-from babies to toddlers to other blankets to... whatever. A Bolivian purse if you will. The women are dressed in bowler hats, with two long, black braids that trail down their backs when they arent carrying a 50 pound kid. They dress in blouses and skirts that hit just above the knee. The skirts are kindaof layered. They also are colorful. There are petticoats under that. Then they wear stockings or dark, knee-high, thick socks. To finish it off they were loafer-looking shoes or sandals. The socks and sandals thing is very in here...and with reason with the drops in temperature between the day and night.

People are, for the most part (which I'm about to explain), are also a lot nicer. As the tired trio stumbled up to the bus station with two things in mind (bathroom and bus tickets), some nice older Bolivian man noticed the dazed looks and helped us find out where to buy tickets. First he asked where we were going, then he pointed to where we should go, and then he ushered us over to the ticket office. It was very nice.

I have another fabulous example of the niceness of the Bolivians, but first I have to explain the not so nice part of them.

After buying tickets, using a bathroom (always an adventure here in Bolivia), we boarded the bus to Tupiza. As we were waiting, I shared a little Lonely Planet (tour guide book) wisdom: watch your bags when you get on because many times "family members" will get on board while the bus is boarding and snatch your bag.

I got visited by a distant "family member."

Yes, that's right folks-you read it correctly. Samantha Hiner managed to get robbed from... again. This time, however, I lost my camera, pictures, journal from all of my stay here in Argentina, my glasses, my Bible, my Lonely Planet, and various other things, such as toiletries. I had myself a nice little cry. I felt (wait... feel) dumb because 1) I'd warned Miranda and Diana just moments before, and 2) because it happened right over my head. I'd put my bag in the overhead compartment right over my seat and then settled in. Apparently I got too distracted. But Miranda and I decided that because I wrote in my journal in Spanish, my family member was going to read it, repent, learn English, read my Bible and Lonely Planet and become a philanthropist.

So how does this show the niceness of Bolivians? Well Miranda was next to me and Diana was across the way. Sitting next to Diana was this Bolivian woman (purse and hat to match), when she realized something was wrong, she asked what happened (as we were discussing matters in English), and then went up to tell the driver. The driver's helper came and questioned me, searched the bus and the people on it, and then STOPPED the bus to search in the under compartment, "just in case."

While I did loose a lot, and I definitely turned to Miranda and told her I wanted to go home and call it quits, looking back it really wasn't that bad. I just happened to have my passport, all my money, cards, and identification on me in that moment. There was a 30 second moment when I was about to put my passport and cards in the bag, but then decided I was too cold to undress and do it. Basically it comes down to a huge annoyance. I have to find another day bag and I'm super paranoid about everyone and everything.

The nice thing was that I was about to go on a 4 day tour of southwestern Bolivia where I wouldn't have to worry about reality. I also was able to replace the most important toiletries fairly easily in Tupiza for less than $10 USD. They weren't lying when they said that Bolivia is cheap, cheap, cheap.

The next morning we got up and headed off. Our tour guides were from the Tupiza area: Rafael, our driver (whose shorter than me), and Lucas, our cook, second trip every. They both were pretty awesome. Lucas was younger and had this awkward laugh, but he really just loved this job and he tried soooo hard to do his job to the best possible. And he really did. I have him to thanks for eating a llama tamale, llama steak, and dulce de leche suckers. Rafael was older and has 2 kids, one is 4 months old. He was a great, great driver (very careful, but without excitmenet) and also a very informed guide. We also met Anne and Aaron from Santa Cruz, CA. Anne is a Spanish high school teacher (she thinks I'd make a great one too) and Aaron is an artist specializing in arcylic, woodcuts, and painting trees.

To save you really boring details, I'll hit the highlights. Overall, I really, really enjoyed the tour. However, it isn't for everyone. It's ALOT of time in a car, the temperature varies like crazy, and you don't shower for several days. There's lots of dust. But what I really did enjoy was this: some of the most amazing landscapes I have ever seen. My mother and father would be having fits because of all the cool rocks there are. Mom would have wanted to start regrowing her rock garden and Dad would never look at another rock on the Ocoee again. I traveled to over 5,000 km above sea leve, I saw this amazing Incan ghost town, I laughed and froze and did so much! I also fell in love with this very cute, 10 year old French boy (sorry Keith) who has a thing for jelly beans and playing war with his green, plastic army men. I listened to the Titanic theme song to a techno beat. I also went to this place called Necropolis, or city of the dead with all these old Incan skulls. There was even one with a flattened forehead! Diana and I were totally excited about that, but disappointed that we couldn't find any others like it. Miranda found two baby skulls. Overall it was really great!

I think if they were to re-name the tour I took they would have to call it one of two things; "Rustic Bolivian" or "Tour of the World's Most Awkward Animals." Rustic Bolivian because we stayed in basic shelters with a toilet and maybe running water. The water froze in the bottles most mornings and one morning we woke up to -10 degrees Fahrenheit!! There was also a lot of peeing in the wilderness and hand sanitizer.

I would call it "Tour of the World's Most Awkward Animals" because of all the awkward animals we saw. Daddy--this would be your tour, man. First there are the llama. I have never realized how funny they are until I saw them running away from me and watched their little prissy butt run. They look like the creature at the beginning of one of the Star Wars movies that Han Solo has to cut open to save Luke Skywalker. (takes a moment to recover from her geekiness) There are also Vicuna, which are like llama, but protected from poaching and more wild. They kindaof look like deer with giraffe necks. And when they run, their body runs straight, but their head kindaof leans out to the side. I don't know how they stop themselves from running in circles. I also saw ostriches. I don't think I need to explain why those are awkward, nor all the donkeys we saw. I saw this rabbit-squirrel (Viscotcha), but it looks like a rabbit with a squirrel tail and runs/hops like a squirrel. Then I saw flamencos. Hundreds of them. It was so sweet. We got really close to them. There are also, what I call, Bolivian seagulls, though they can't be seagulls because there isn't a sea.

Ok: That's all I can do now. I have official used up the siesta time here and am going to go find out about a tour tomorrow to go look at dinosaur prints.

Salta

Salta is in the north of Argentina. It is still cold... haha. This place is much more arid and dry than Buenos Aires, but it still maintains a very green look and feel. The people here are more native and of darker complexions. It is so different from Buenos Aires--less people, less crazy traffic, less everything. I like the way the people talk here-laid back, slow. I would say it's like talking to people from Savannah; they enjoy talking and pronouncing the language.

Today I went to a place called Cafayate. It's about two hours south of Salta, but along the way it goes from green, leafy vegation to rocky, dry amazing rock formations. There are cacti. Brent, Sumanya, and I went on a tour with a guy named Fernando today. It was a lot of fun. We saw lots of rocks... no I swear, it was much more exciting than that. It was really very beautiful. The drives were very nice, very scenic. We also went to some bodegas, but they were nada que ver with the ones in Mendoza. I wasn't impressed.

I've meet up with some people from my program here and we're enjoyng ourselves. The hostel is a little warmer than the one in Rosario and filled with much more people. I haven't been out and about because I've been getting up early to go on tours.

The regional food for here is locro (a kindaof stew), humita (tamales without meat), and tamales. I think we are going out to get some tonight. It's good heavy, filling, and warm food. After tonight though, I think I might have to resort to PB&Js to save on the moola.

I should be moving on from Salta sometime at the end of this week. We will just have to see.

A bit of humor:
Because my parents worry about me traveling alone, I like to send them update emails because they ask me. The last one I sent from Rosario mentioned that we had gone out to Madame, which I mentioned as "the biggest boliche (club) in all of Argentina" (boy was Sumi happy). My dad's response e-mail was as follows:

"What is a boliche? Your Loving father-Russ"

hmmm... maybe I shouldn't explain all the Spanish I sprinkle in my posts ;)

check in later. besos.

Rosario

I am currently in Rosario, first stop on the exciting "Shiney in South America" road trip. We, Brent, Sumanya, and I, left Buenos Aires yesterday in the morning. It was rainy and cold. We arrived in Rosario and it's rainy and cold. But I say that with a smile. We are enjoying ourselves. Antonela, Carmen's granddaughter who is our age, meet up with us and showed us around a bit yesterday. We visited the flag monument, which is this hhhuuuuuggggeee monument to the Argentina flag and its flag maker-Manuel Belgrano.

Today we are going to meet up with Antonela and watch her play hockey, then eat at her house. It is still cold, but less windy. There's a fine mist going.

Packing and leaving was fine. I can't believe I fit it all! Naturally I'm beginning to realize what I'm missing right now (like I forgot a mesh laundry bag), but I'm making due. I also bought a sleeping bag that is for -15 degrees Celsius and boy am I glad I did that! The hostel may have been a little cold, but I was nice and toasty last night. It's bright orange and small (making shifting in my sleep a little difficult), but it compacts easily and is well worth the money I paid for it (less than a hundred US dollars!). The hostel has really hot showers, which I am super thankful for becase I don't know how much longer I'll be getting hot showers.

Well, the day has started, and I must go! I'll write as I can.

me falta un poco..

So I haven't blogged in a while for good reason--- Natalie came to visit me!!! We had so much fun. We went to two soccer matches, one for Boca and one for River Plate. They were a lot of fun and I have come out a River fan-I even bought a jersey to prove it!

Having Natalie around helped me finish up on the last little bits of touristy things that needed to be done. I also had to finish finals though... eeepppss!! I've done pretty well so far, seeing as today I'm sacar-ing my grades. Natalie was very chill about me having to go to school and her amusing herself. I really really appreciated it (thank you again Natalie!!). We even got a little bit outside of the city--we made it up to Tigre. The tour was a little bit of a bust, but I would say that we enjoyed ourselves.

And now I'm starting to make plans to travel for a month. As it would happen I'll be traveling alone, but I should be meeting up with people on the way. Starting Friday I will be heading toward Cuzco, Peru to see Manchu Picchu. Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to fit everything into my hiking backpack!

More details to come on everything... :)

How ever did I forget....?

I can't believe I forgot to write about one of my biggest adventures recently... I saw Shakira perform the other weekend!

Shakira is awesome. I will now explain why:
1) She started a foundation called ALAs which is dedicated to helping Latin American kids out with food and education. She co-founded it, I believe, with other Latin American artists to attempt to actually do something for the people now, not just wait around for the governments to fix things.
2) She's just a great performer.

The ALAs group hosted these two huge, free concerts. One was in Mexico City, Mexico (yes, that was necessary) and the other was here in Buenos Aires. I had to go on a wild goose chase to obtain the tickets, but in the end it was totally worth the waiting! On the wild goose chase- doesn't suprise me that it took forever to figure out what was going on--the entire concert seemed really hush-hush.... except for all the people in line with me and the almost 50,000 people that came to the concert! But very Argentine bureaucracy to have to run around with no answers from anyone.

Point being that I got my tickets, and then I went on the 17th and waited ALL day long. We (Sumanya, Miranda, Brent, Julian, Cynthia, Roger, and Julianna) got at the Ecological Reserve of Buenos Aires around 1ish. We didn't leave until around 11:45. But in between that time I saw 5 huge Latin American music stars. I have to admit I don't remember most of them (because I just didn't know the music), but I do know that it was a great lineup. There was a huge stage and the people stood in a huge crowd all around it. It had this Piedmont Park/Music MidTown feel, for those from the A-area.

Our group staked out some grass and we chilled sitting for as long as possible. As it got darker, and the bigger and bigger stars started to play, we had to give up our land and stand. Every artist (about 12) played a 15 -20 minute set, then breakdown/setup starting around 4pm. As it got later, however.... the breaking down/setting up took way. too. long.

I'll save you all the details on the indiviual artists that you don't know and skip straight to Shakira. AMAZING. She has such a stage presence. I was 300 people, easily, away from her, and I could still see her smile (and no, I don't mean just for the big LCD screens that were up... her actual one). She shares the stage so well. She performed with Alejandro Sanz (La Tortura), My Hips Don't Lie (I swear... it was Wyclef Jean), and then she sang a song with this very famous, very fat Argentine folklore singer. It was beautiful.

Overall I throughly enjoyed myself. I learned a whole bunch of new artists, I socialized, I got to see a great show... It was all wonderful. The worst part about the entire thing was how Shakira didn't really say goodbye. She said something like "We are here to make a difference..." and then she just... walked off stage. So I was a little disappointed in her for that, but the rest of the day outshone that small blemish.

I was very cultural today. I saw the Immigrant Museum, which is housed down in the Retiro section of town, right next to the river. During the early 19th century, the Argentine government strongly encouraged immigration from Europe. At one point it paid for passage across the Atlantic. To help the new immigrants out, the government commissioned "Immigrant Hotels." Immigrants arrived, were registered, given papers, a place to eat, sleep, and medical care while they found work and established a life. So the Immigrant Museum of today is in one of the oldest Immigrant Hotels. The museum its self is pretty sad (basically an old dining hall filled with artifacts-the coolest of which being old registry books) . But Stephanie, Diana, and I made the best out of it. We decided to take some stairs and just see where they lead. It's wasn't like the stairs were roped off, they just didn't look inviting either.

We walked up to the third floor. It looks like they are trying to restore the building, but lack funding. There was trash everywhere. Some doors were shut, others lead to large dormitory rooms we assumed. It was medio creepy. There was this one shut room that we peered into via the key hole. In the middle of the room was just.. this chair, perfectly placed for peering via a key hole. Reminiscent of 'The Ring," if you will.

We saw old toilets, communal showers and sinks, and this old lift. Near this lift was this wrought iron ladder that lead to the roof. Stephanie and I wanted to climb it. As Diana was protesting, we heard this yelp/growl/"I'm being eaten to death" noise. We just looked at each other. It happened again. We didn't have any idea what it was or where it came from, until we realized it was coming from this stray dog that had found it's way into the museum and was following us around. We were trying to loose the dog anyway, so Stephanie and I started to run for it. Diana was somewhere behind us, taking pictures. We were all dying of silent laughter because we weren't sure if we were supposed to be where we were and whether we'd get in trouble if someone found us.

Can I say something here: Ditching a dog... doesn't work. Sucker found us. He actually seemed to be making sure we didn't go back upstairs. We "believe he probably saw a ghost...." What this story boils down to is this: We ended up having a blast discovering part of Argentina's past.

I also went to the Buenos Airean Holocaust Museum. As Diana later said it didn't really have anything on the one in D.C. (which I still haven't seen), but what I liked was how it showed the intimate connection of Argentina and the events of the Nazis and Jews during the Second World War. Argentina, for those who don't know, was a huge safe haven for both groups. While Jews still experienced Anti-antisemitism, Nazi's found refugee because Peron, yes, the great Juan Peron, and his lovely wife Evita were huge Nazi supporters. So while most everyone knows the story of the Holocaust and it's effects in Europe, this museum showed, and remembered, the effects in Argentina itself.

After that I had lunch with Diana in a place called Pippo. I wouldn't recommend this place for its food--it's pretty run of the mill and what not. But what I loved about the place (despite as Diana so eloquently put it: "it's painted institutionally pink..") was that you could tell it had a history. There were all these old Argentine guys sitting around eating, drinking wine, and reading newspapers. You could tell it was a place of "regulars." I felt very relaxed and Argentine. So if you're ever in Buenos Aires, Pippo, on Defensa, between Corrientes and Sarmiento. Come during lunch-right around 1pm. Make sure to get a good people watching seat.

It was a pretty dang good day. I'm feeling a little under the weather-first time really. It's a sinus/nose/ears/throat thing. It's like the entire inside of my nose is dry without mucus (eeeww!!) but I keep sniffing. And then the drainage is hurting my throat and ears. I'm hoping it will pass in the next couple of days. I think that it has to do with the sudden change in temperature (colder because of a storm front). So we'll see.

And so that's all I have to say for now... and boy, turned out to be more than I expected!

66 days to go....

AH! I just counted to have a blog title and lo and behold.... I was accosted with this horrendous truth! I can't believe it. So much has happened in the past 4 months-good things, bad things, crazy things, and always with a lot of helado-ice cream.

I got back all my midterm grades yesterday--I did very well, if I may say so myself!! However, the Argentines lie when they say "midterms." They were more like "3/4 terms." So my finals are in 3 weeks or so. Right about the time Natalie gets here... haha. Right. Me study. Not. (Just kidding mom.. of course I'll study...)

And then in about 4 weeks I begin to travel. The plan is to be at Manchu Picchu July 8th and then from there to come back down to Argentina and see more of Argentina with my roommate, Sumanya. Then, when we get back to Buenos Aires, I'll have a few days to pack, wash clothes, celebrate Carmen's 21st birthday, say good bye to my barrio and the city... and then I'll be on a plane back to the States. And who knows what I'll find when I get there...

But enough of those thoughts! Eepps! So what has been going on....

Sumanya left my sorry self and went off to Rio de Janiero and Iguazu. She had a blast. But then I got to meet Carmen's daughter. She came down from Rosario for the weekend that Sumanya was in Iguazu. I enjoyed meeting her. Carmen says that she looks and acts just like her father. However I see more resemblance of Carmen's constant movement and worry in her daughter. Couldn't tell Carmen that though because she thinks she's as tranquil as a lake. Or whatever that phrase is. We had a typical Argentine picada; green olives (I think I forgot to mention how they love olives here. They put full olives on the pizzas. They just sit there being full and olive-y), cold cuts of jam, sliced jam, Brie, Blue cheese, a salad, and bread. It was very good. Drank it all down with Patagonian beer.

Then Carmen started feeling bad. She stayed that way for a better part of a week. The scary part was before she admitted she didn't feel well and when she walked around her inner ear was off so she tipped all over the place and lost her balance alot. And then when she finally had to admit her sickness, she felt horrible and asked if Sumanya and I wanted to move into another house for a little bit. Of course we told her no.

But she's been getting much better. Damn chippy. Sometimes a little too much. Like yesterday morning. Carmen has this really mala costumbre, bad habit, of trying to speak lots of fast Spanish at me right when I wake up. I mean I wouldn't say I'm not a morning person... but I do need my two minutes to get the brain working. So she was going on and on and jabbering about how good she felt. I was mumbling affirmation in my sleepy Spanglished mind. I guess she thought I wasn't paying attention or not agreeing that she should feel good so she asked me roughly "oh, and why shouldn't I feel good, eh?" and I said, "I said muy bien. I didn't say que mala.I said muy bien!! oh.. wait. I mean. Dije muy bien.." That seemed to placate her a bit. Oh Carmen. Well, I left the house and did some things. When I came back, I found out that someone had stolen her purse on the way from the supermarket, el Disco. She was miserable. And I felt bad for her. I had to leave for class. When I came home there was this woman drinking tea with Carmen. She was an English teacher at a nearby religious school, but her contract just ended so she'll be coming back soon. She is American, from L.A. She invited Carmen, Sumanya and me to go to her Evangelical church. She brought preaching pamplets. She'd found Carmen's cartera, purse, in the gutter outside on the street and had returned it to her.

You know what's weird? The only things that were missing from the purse were several Catholic religious symbols that Carmen carried in her purse. The money (more than 200 pesos), the credit/debit cards, the glasses, etc... it was all there. Except for those relics. Interesting, eh? I can't say that all people are so nice when they return purses (ie: the Great Robber of Buenos Aires that affected Diana and I), but Carmen got her things back. Though now she's on a stint wondering whether or not this woman actually found the purse, took out the saints, and is trying to convert Carmen to "her religion."

Ojo (a very Argenine phrase, often accompanied with a motion of the pointed forefinger touching right underneath the eye on the cheek bone) but back to the Ojo! part: In Argentina, many Argentines believe that Christians are of a different religion, and that each division/denomination is a separate religion. Brent has experienced this with his host mom, and has since given up trying to explain it to her. So, this morning Carmen runs her new conspiracy theory by me, once again within the first 10 minutes I'm up, so I can't do much more than just think. When Sumanya gets up, Carmen goes over it again, and I realize what bothers me so much about the theory: the misconception of the different "religion." So we end up having a discussion about where I carefully explain that they are the same religion, just different ideas. And how I think it's strange that the woman, obviously a very strong Christian, would try to go about converting Catholics when there are thousands of Atheists and other Satan worshipers around (I mean it is a big city...). I think Carmen gets it now. She also wants to go to the church, but I dunno if Carmen's ready for an Evangelical church. She's all set on Brent and me going with her.

That all said, Carmen is still very thankful about the entire thing and is glad she has her things back.

Here's another little cultural tidbit: One of Carmen's friends (an Arabian, I think), once told her that in the woman's culture, when you loose something, you turn a wine glass up side down (so the brim is touching the cabinet floor) and then you are assured to find it, and when you do, you turn the glass right-side up again. Carmen had done this when she lost her purse and when it showed back up she turned the glass right side up again. I think it's a very interesting little "superstition," I guess. Gunna have to try it.

Argentines also enjoy drinking out of straws when they are enjoying any nonalcoholic drink out of a bottle, mind that this is coming from a culture where it's a daily routine to share a straw for mate. Funny, huh? But anyways, they serve all bottles of soda and water with straws. I guess our equivalent is maybe napkins? We, as Americans, always give out hundreds of napkins. Or ketchup packets. Point is, that the straws for the drinks are something that you don't have to ask for, they just give it to you.

This little cultural whatnot brings up an interesting thought about waste. I'm sure most of you have heard about how wasteful Americans are compared to the rest of the world. However, I have to admit that between porteños, por lo menos, and Americans there's that much of a difference. At least I don't see it. Maybe I should ask Sumanya who swears by the waste of Americans.

bueno.... time to go out and start another fabulous day!

I drink mate in the gym...

I haven't written since my last big adventure-getting robbed, so I figured that I should probably say some good things about my time here in Buenos Aires. Firstly... I have 11 weeks or there about 77 days left in my time in South America. I can't believe that it's wrapping up.

So something that I've wanted to write about for a while is the gym culture here. I know this will only really interest my mother, but I thought it was very interesting. I joined a gym here about 2 months into coming down. I'm so glad I did. I think I would be going crazy/not fitting into any of my pants anymore. But the gym here is a little different, at least from what I've noticed. First, my gym, (something like $60USD for 3 months) is filled with older, but very well maintenance equipment. That doesn't bother... basically you can parallel it to the Pit at Berry. In the same way of smaller gyms in the States, there is definitely the feel of everyone knows everyone else and will help each other out. The biggest differences are the people I see wearing flip flops and lifting heavy weights. The floor trainers were even helping the guy out without saying anything about his flip flops. Also there is less sense of cleaning up after yourself. People will do bench presses with heavy weights, finish, and walk away without taking them off. There are also weights all over the floor. (note: I realize this also happens in the States, I'm just saying) The biggest, and really only annoyance, I've had has been the other members lack of respect for those working out. I'll be on the floor doing ab work and this person will come up and start lifting heavy weights right above my head. The place is a little crowded, but in general, if you are near their equipment, or you're where they want to be, it won't matter to them--they'll just go for it. A little scary. I can't tell if this is something that the members do to every other member, or if they do it to me because I'm a girl, or because I am obviously not Argentine. Argentines like to wear Spandex to the gym. I've seen some girls that are dangerously skinny. One is all eyes and sharp corners.

Something interesting that I have found is the floor staff. They are there to help you out, and if you ask, for no extra cost, they will give you a full routine. Diana and I decided to try this out yesterday and we had a lot of fun with our personal trainer guy. We named him "Mate Boy" because he walks around the gym with a mate and thermos in hand, pouring out mate while helping people out. At the end of our workout he even offered Diana and I some mate. We have a 'date' on Monday to do legs.

With so little time left I've been trying to figure out what there is I still want to see and where I wanna go. I finally decided--I still have so much! I'm trying to plan a trip at the end of the semester, before I go home that will include the countries of Bolivia, Chile, Peru, and perhaps even Ecuador. The thing I'm most nervous about is booking Manchu Picchu--most everything is getting full... and fast! I am so thankful that I've finally found people to travel with, but now differing budgets, what people want to see, and conflicting time frames seems almost at the edge of pulling us apart. So if anyone has some savings and 3.5 weeks to travel... I'm a great travel partner!

Other exciting news: Natalie comes to visit me in less than 3 weeks! Which also means that I have to finish my 10 page paper in Spanish by that time! epps! She's heading off the Italy tomorrow which is very exciting.