Yesterday, after I blogged, I walked around the artesanal market called "The Witches' Market." The name comes not only from the random trinkets, but also for selling old, herbal remedies. They also like to sell mummified, baby bird/llama looking things. I bought some little trinkets, but my search for a backpack was completely futile. Most (quality) bags were around $USD 65, none of which I was particularly found of, and I would rather spend 60 Bolivianos for a brightly, clashing colored woven bag and then have another reminder from my solo trip in South America. Naturally, when I decided that, I suddenly couldn't find a good enough bag. *sigh* well I still have time.
Actually I have just a little over 2 weeks left! EEKS! The hardest part will be getting over the border from Valaparìso (Chile) to Mendoza (Argentina). Seeing as it's very much winter down there right now, and I will have to pass through the Andes, I have heard rumors of buses having to return to Chile because of snow blockages. Therefore, I need to keep this factor in mind as I travel.
But back to La Paz, where I currently am. La Paz reminds me of Mexico City, in a way. La Paz is a city of hills, hills, and more hills. You are never at the top, but you are never at the bottom. You literally walk uphill both ways... The houses fight with each other for a bit of uphill to build on. They climb up the surrounding sides and nestle. When I rode in at dawn the other day, the city was in a semi-darkness with all the street lights lit. Because of the geography and the layout of the city, when I arrived, La Paz looked like a huge blanket of rolling lights. Where the mountain jutted up, and there were no houses, there was a pitch black hole in the blanket. While Mexico City is a bit flatter, the same thing occurred when we flew in at night--there where black spots in a huge blanket of lights. The effect is definitely one of the coolest things I've seen.
I have been huffing and puffing quite a bit. Luckily, the altitude doesn't get me too much. Symptoms include nausea, headache, loss of appetite, dizziness, among other things. When I was in the salt flats (which were some 4300 km above sea level), I felt the altitude in my jaw (I figure that really means my ear canals where adjusting). Also I had to make sure not to overstuff myself (really hard when you are cold and it's amazing how high altitudes make you hungry) or else I would feel nauseous. I used coca leaves in Salta and drank coca tea in the salt flats. It's amazing how much it helps! I was a little worried about coming up from Sucre (the lowest altitude I've been at in a week), but I haven't had anything coca to help me. Instead I've been eating chocolate... and that seems to be helping.
Speaking of coca leaves, I visited the Coca Museum yesterday. It was pretty cool, actually. It explained the usage of the coca plant through the ages. I learned a lot that I didn't know about the coca plant. Coca, by the way, is a little bitter, but has a very earth, strong smell and taste to it. You can tell when people nearby are eating it because of its distinctness.
One of the most interesting things I learned about the coca plant is the Coca Legend. Used mainly by Andean people, the coca plant, according to their legends, was given to them by the Gods gave the plant to help ease their suffering. Coca has many medicinal properties and has been proven to help create endurance in hard labor, depress appetite, and help with altitude sickness. The Gods left very specific instructions about how the leaf should be used. They also made a prediction about "But if your torturer, who come from the North/the white conqueror, the gold seeker, should touch it/he will find in it only.../poison for his body/and madness for his mind" (AntonioDíaz Villamil-If you want to read the whole legend/doctrine (which is very interesting) check out http://www.cocamuseum.com/main.htm and click on the numbers. The script comes up).
I just found the entire museum fasinating. They even showed how cocaine is made in the sense of all the horrible chemicals put into its production. The museum also has anti-drug program to promote the disuse of cocaine and crack. I could go on for days about coca leaves now, but if you really want to know, you can ask me and I'll tell you. I'll save you a longer blog.
PS: Coca leaves are completely legal here in Bolivia for less than 250 gm. As the museum explains, and I've picked up, coca leaves are a social lubricant (they are a ritual and a social thing), much like alcohol is for Western society.
I have also visited the National Art Museum (loads of Virgin Marys) and a Textile Museum of surrounding cultures textiles. Some dated back to pre-colombian (before the arrival of Colombus) times. I also learned the the Bolivian purses that the women carry are called Awayu-Ilijlla.
The women, by the way, are much fancier here in the city. They tend to wear actually skirts (opposed to blankets) with shiny, silky-looking fabric. I saw an Afro-Indigenous Bolivian woman today. I was taken back to see (what looked like to me) an African walking around in traditional Bolivian garb. It makes sense, though, because the Spanish brought African slaves with them as they took over South America. I think in the area it was to work alongside the native people in the mines. I'm sure the workers intermarried or maybe some slaves even escaped and found refugee in indegienous villages.
Di and Miranda ended up catching another bus to Cuzco, so they never came to the hostel. But it turned out OK. I met a lot of great people and had a fabulous night last night. I meet these 2 Irish sisters (Barbara and Kate- ps: Lindsay, I missed you) who had been traveling together and had joined this girl from Holland. Ruth, from Holland, has actually been interning in Buenos Aires the past few months, so we had a pleasant conversation about Buenos Aires. I also meet this Australian guy with 3 different passports named Phillip. He's going to be traveling the Eastern Coast of the States soon, so I gave him all my favorite cities on the way and places to eat. There were also two Australian girls (Susan and Karen). So we all hung out. We went out for sushi. It took us 20 minutes just to find the place because taxi drivers here don't have a clue where they are going. When we arrived the place was closing so we hurried up and ordered and ate fast sushi. Enjoyed the company. After that we hung out at the hostel, meet some South Africans and we all chatted. Finally we went out to a club called Orange, which was a pretty big bust. Literally. When we showed up there were police everywhere. From what we can gather the police were searching for drugs (they even checked behind the bottles behind the bar) and a good majority of the people left. The club wasn't terrible crowded and the music was pretty weird, but I enjoyed myself. I made the best out of it that I could.
Today I woke up, showered in the perfect shower, gathered some dirty laundry together, and went of in search of a laundry place and a bus ticket on this generally, very shut down, Sunday in La Paz. I found this guy who would do my 3 kilos (about 6 pounds) of laundry for 20 bolivianos, and deliver it to the hostel same day, but he seemed... a little sketchy. Like his office was this side, plastic windowed corner in the middle of a hallway of some place. And he wanted me to pay straight up. I turned him down. Luckily, I found another place (a chain off of the one my hostel recommended) where I have to pay 1 boliviano more and return myself to get my laundry. So I'll need to pay for a taxi, but I feel like my clothes are safer. Clean socks tonight!
I also found a bus ticket for tomorrow. And that's all I've really done today. I was going to try to go see La Valle de la Luna, but that involves getting on a La Pazian bus (eeehhhh) and there's also this huge market fair thing in the middle of the main street right now... so I think I'll wonder and find some food and call it a day. Maybe a nap.