Let's Play Catch Up!

When we last tuned in Shiney was trying to figure out siesta and Spanish patience. Since then...

I've managed to do quite a bit! I still have to go shopping at three different stores to get the bare necessities, but I'm beginning to figure out what I can get (and what I can't) and where to go to get that which I need. Luckily, trying to find places to get food is the worst of my worries.

Tuesday night I had dinner with Charleen and Anni (the English girl that I helped out earlier in the week) at a restaurant near by, and it was pretty good! It offered Spanish cuisine, but at a better quality (I think). The restaurant is Caña y Tapas, or Beer and Tapas. I didn't have any beer, though. I had a lemon Fanta. Lemon Fanta has the best flavor of all the other Fantas, and I don't understand why they don't have Fanta Límon in the States. I should be the person to change that. Then, later in life, with my grandchildren at my knee, when they ask me what my greatest accomplishment in life is, I can tell them (with pride) that it was I, yes, your dear old Granny, that brought Lemon Fanta to the States! Or maybe I'll tell them that my greatest accomplishment was mastering the art of spreading Nutella on a croissant while licking my fingers. Either one, I'm sure they'll be impressed.

After reveling in the beauty that is Fanta Límon, Charleen and I headed to a place called El Junco. The club epitomizes that which is jazzy: dim, smoky, seductive, and conversation. We only stayed for the jam part of the evening (wanted to catch the Metro back home before it closed down), but what we say was good. Charleen's the best jazz listener I've ever seen. She just sits back and lets the music move over her.

On Wednesday I made my first trip to IKEA. The title of this post was almost "IKEA you disappointed me!" I didn't find what I needed.... correction: what I wanted. I did find a mattress pad, which is good news. My bed could be called "firm," but "plank" is more correct. It's so firm that I've bruised myself by laying on it (no joke!). I will admit, however, that I am getting used to it and find it more comfortable every night. On that note, I also was able to borrow a fan from Jana.... oh my! the difference it doth make! Shakespeare could write a soliloquy about it.

Wednesday celebrated the bicentennial anniversary of Mexico's independence. Naturally, that meant we americanas had to go out and join in the celebrating. Janel knew of a CouchSurfers get together that was going down. For those who don't know CouchSurfing, Janel offers the best explanation I've heard. Sadly, you, dear reader, can't hear her tell you. Consequently, I will inform you, but with none of the flavor of Janel's explanation. Essentially, CouchSurfing is an online community of people who have opened their doors to travelers, and offer free/cheap accommodation. The idea is that you join, create a profile, get recommended by friends and other users (the more good ones you have, the better), people who you are requesting to stay with see that you aren't a creeper, and then you get to stay with someone who knows the area and can hopefully show you around. Google more if my description leaves you wanting.

At this CouchSurfing event I managed to meet no Mexicans whatsoever, but rather a Peruvian, Dominican Republican, Brazilian and a Guatemalan. Well, at least one of them was near Mexico, right? After the party, we headed out to a club named Dreams. It stank of bad American pop music (to which I danced happily--though I laughed too hard when the DJ brought back "Country Grammar") and wasn't very full (but then again, it was Wednesday). When I got home I managed to talk to Natalie and Elisabeth til it was way past my bedtime and getting late in the evening for them.

Thursday herald the arrival of Sara, the girl who used to live in my room. She is so very vibrant, with a great laugh and contagious smile. She uses lots of inflection and different voices to convey what she's talking about. When she dances, she has these retro, sock-hop-like moves. Cracks me up.  Sara's from the north of Spain and was in Madrid last year to finish studying. She's back to finish up one exam  (I haven't cottoned on yet exactly why she still has the one to take), but she isn't staying for long. I can see that she misses Madrid. I wish she were living here this year! I feel lucky to be living in  a place that has some awesome people in it.

Thursday was a stormy day: my first rainstorm in Madrid having taken place the night before. It was heaven listening to the rain as I feel asleep. A few thunder rumbles and lightening flashes woke me, but the smell of fresh air was intoxicating. Janel woke up with the desire to bake, which only makes sense... it was a baking type of day. After lunch of Doner Kebab (if I haven't explained these yet, I will soon!), Janel, Emily (her roommate and another Fulbrighter), Leah, and Kate came over to bake some Challah bread. We sat around playing Uno and talking. Raquel joined us for a while, but left to watch TV because her soccer team was playing.

At first I was nervous to have people come to my house because I know it's such a taboo, but Raquel (at least) seems fascinated by people of a different culture, so I don't think she minds having my friends around. The people from my program are also extremely well-mannered, and more mature than people on erasmus (what Europeans call study abroad).

I will now take a moment to explain one of the greatest phenomonen about Fulbright is the passion that every single person here in the program has. Those who are actual "Fulbrighters" (i.e., doing research) have such interesting and diverse project titles. One woman, Linda, is in Seville to study flamenco. She's been dancing for years, and she's been to Seville before, but now she's coming back as an accomplished flamenco-ist. When I asked her if she's going to get a true, handmade flamenco dress, her face went berserk with excitement, joy, and giddy anticipation. Everyone here has that same fuel and excitement about something: whether it's working with body image, cooking (and learning culture through the kitchen), bichemics--lo que sea (whatever)! Even us "Half-brighters" (those doing the TA-ing) are supposed to have side projects to keep us busy (as if we aren't going to be!) but that can pertain to our own interests outside of teaching.

I guess you could just say simply that this group, at least, of Fulbrighters is a well-rounded one, and none of us are afraid to show our nerdy side.

Having finished that tangent, the point is I am less nervous about having people over in small groups. This change in emotion is noteworthy because it means I am beginning to fell more at home here in my piso.

Since Sara had come to visit, we went to have Mexican food once the Fulbrighters left. Eating Mexican food in every country is a unique experience, even in Mexico itself. For starters, the waitress brought us a small plate with 3 different salsas and a handful of stale, broken nacho chips. The difference between the chip basket of here and the States made me laugh. The ladies ordered cheese sauce and nachos with guacamole. When this first course arrived, flour tortillas were also delivered. I surreptitiously watched my compañeras to figure out how this was supposed to go down. They continued to gab, grabbing a tortilla and making a quesadilla with the cheese. It was tasty but not exactly my meal. Then the fajitas came, and they were delicious. It was a pretty good meal.

After dinner we went to a bar called Mi madre era una groupie: or My mother was a groupie. It had this 60s discotheque feel to it and they played popular British and American music from the 50s, 60s, and 70s. Randomly there was also a little Jet and "Pretty Fly for a White Guy" played. Oh, Spain: you're taste of American music cracks me up. What cracks me up even more is listening to Spaniards intone along with the sound. I have heard some pretty weird renditions to some American classics. I'm pretty sure it's exactly how I sound when I sing a song in Spanish that I don't know well.

The group didn't stay out very late since Jana and Raquel had work in the morning. I also found out that I was expected at my school Friday morning only about 12 hours before I had to go in. But I will write about that in my next post!

(Left to Right: Jana, Laura, Raquel, Sara)

Lesson of the Day: Siesta

The hardest part about being abroad for me is this internal, constantly nagging feeling that I should be doing something, taking part in an activity, out with people, etc. ... oh, wait. That's just me. :D

I also believe the loneliness is setting in. Yes, the other Fulbrighters are still around, and we do hang out, but it always seems that they are out being active, while I feel like I'm sitting at home, when I should be out and about. Part of this feeling is the realization that everyone I know here in Madrid is getting settled--just like me. (And didn't I just finish writing about how busy I soon will be?) Therefore, I'm trying to take a few deep breaths, not eat all the time because I'm bored, and just get into the mood of settling. And I also think I'll ask people if they're up to anything at all, to give me a call.

In reference to the title, the hardest part during the day is the siesta time. As a go-getter, the idea of a break in the middle of the day is a hard concept to grasp. Now, what is siesta exactly? It's a time in the middle of the day, starting anywhere from 2pm and going as late as 6pm, where many of the smaller stores (and sometimes the bigger stores) close. they just roll down their metal grates and take off for lunch. Cafes and restaurants normally stay open, but there's no promise. Therefore, siesta is not a time to get things done. Instead, it's a time to eat, relax, nap, and spend time with family and friends.

This mindset doesn't work well with my personal way of life--yet. But perhaps it soon will. Like I said, this is not a time to "do" anything. I get that as a cultural thing, but not as a lifestyle yet. I mean, if no one else is out and about, then why should I feel like I have to be? Today siesta reminded me that taking it easy is a good thing to do.

I was also very busy this morning. I've noticed that for the past two nights I've had some problems sleeping. First off, I've been going to bed late (2 am), and just as I seem to be settling in, my room becomes stifling hot. It doesn't really cool down until 4am or so, so I end up laying there, sweating and thinking too much. Luckily, I don't have to be up early, so I normally can sleep until 11. Which I did today. It was lovely. I had just gotten up when the doorbell rang, and in walked my landlady. She was here to show my new roommate in.

Laura is also from the area of Extremadura and apparently knows some of Raquel's brother's friends. She's here to study for her masters in human resourcing (I believe that's the translation). She normally has classes in the afternoon, which frees up the bathroom for Raquel and I in the morning. She's very nice, and talks slower than Raquel (though Raquel thinks she talks faster than herself!).

After they left, and I'd had my breakfast, I went to the chino near my piso. I found everything--it was like the dollar store, but OJO, not everything is a euro (sad day). I got hangers, a small notebook, a set of colored pens (cuz I felt like it), tissues, and a folder to hold all my documents in, among some other small things. Just a little bit of settling in.

Looking to the future, I realized that I should probably figure out what I need to do to fill my prescriptions in the next month (when I run out). I found a pharmacy near my house that is kind enough to sell me the prescriptions without a Spanish prescription. In other words, my American prescription is good enough for them. The only remaining question is whether it's worth paying to see a doctor, and whether that would make my prescriptions free. It was good to know that I can get them filled without too much trouble.

Then I just went roaming and took some pictures. I walked a couple of plazas over and saw some people selling plants. I walked over and found a gardenia plant. I told the guy I would be back for it because I wasn't done roaming and didn't want to walk around with a plant all day. I thought a gardenia would be nice (if I can keep it alive) because it will give my room a nicer look and I will smell that rather than the cigarette smoke that wafts up to my room as I'm getting ready for bed.

I then went to FNAC, which is this big media and book store near Puerta del Sol (a huge plaza in the center of Madrid). Raquel told me that their prices weren't too bad. I found a book (in Spanish) that I think I might try reading. I didn't buy it though, in case I can find it for cheaper at the book fair street that Raquel told me about. I asked her if she'd take me tomorrow evening, so we'll see.

Home again, home again, jiggity jig! I now have a plant in my window sill, school supplies, and all my clothes can officially hang. Life is looking good! I also got to talk to Celia today, and talking with her is always a good   moment. I asked Raquel where I could buy a fan for my room, and she told me that the weather should be getting cooler by Thursday, so there's no sense in buying one. She also suggested that I ask Janna if I might borrow hers. In thirty minutes or so, I should be meeting up with some people for dinner and to go out for jazz.
,
Side notes: (I'm beginning to sound like an alcoholic, but that's really not the case--I've hardly drunk since I got here) The Madrid Ice Bar is located, like, 3 blocks from my house. Ice bars are cool and should be experienced by all, not for the drinking, but for the atmosphere. Huzzah!

As I was out and about yesterday gathering groceries from the 3 stores that I have to go to to do so, I kept seeing this girl walking around with her suitcase, obviously lost. I figured on the third time that I saw her, that I needed to help her. Her name is Anni, and she's from England. She'll also be teaching English. So I helped her to her hostel, and gave her my email "in case she needed a friend once she got more settled." She emailed today, so we'll see if we get together soon.

Mis Compañeras de Piso (and other notes about Life)

Roommates, house mates, flat mates, the most awesome people ever!, those stupid *&(^s that never clean up... no matter what you call them, they are the people you live with and see everyday. And tonight's blog is just about that: my darling house mates. (Disclaimer: I have 4 people living with me, but I've only met 2, so that's who I'll be talking about tonight)

Raquel is from Extremadura, which is the to South-West of Madrid. She talks very fast and she's tiny with big, curly hair. She's also very, very nice. She has been very helpful in answering any of my questions, and doesn't hold back for nada. She teaches English at a primary school just a little out of Madrid. However, she

says her English isn't very good. In fact, she wants me to give her clases particulares, or tutor her, in English and she's willing to pay! Raquel said something about the landlady's son also needing help. At orientation, the Fulbrighters from the year before said it would be very easy to find people to tutor, and eventually we'd be turning people down--now I see what they mean!

But back to Raquel: she's about 25-27 (I can't remember what she told me). I also believe we both have a fascination with reading, so she's going to show me where I can find cheap books. And also, if anyone has any books they wouldn't mind sending, I'm sure she'd love to have then. I think she's still working on books less than 200 pages, probably at a middle school reading level. I'll have to ask her what type of books she likes. And since she teaches children, children books would also be a great gift for her.

Raquel has been living in the piso for something like 3 years. She says that the last time there was an americana was when she first arrived. Since then there has been French, Italian, and, of course, other Spaniards. We've also had a lot of fun attempting to decipher her favorite American artists (her accent is pretty heavy). I believe she studied abroad in England for a while, but it was far enough back that she has forgotten quite a bit of it.

Jana is the foreigner in residence. She's from Berlin, and is also about 25-27 years old. Jana has blue eyes and short blonde hair with a button nose. She has been living in Madrid for 3 years and works south of the city. Normally she's gone most of the day, but prefers to live in the city. She also has answered all of my questions. Sometimes I go to her after I've spoken with Raquel... especially if I don't understand Raquel ;) Jana speaks slower, and doesn't really have an accent. Her English also isn't very good, so I'm in a good position to keep practicing my Spanish. Jana is very kind and I like her laugh. She has a different kind of energy than Raquel, but it's just as lovely.

I am also loving my piso a little more every day. It's in a great location, super close to work (for being in the center), and quiet. I feel like once the other two girls come, the place will look a little more lived in. Right now, there is an air of extreme tidiness that makes it not feel quite like home. I've also already decided that when no one is home my guilty pleasure will be walking around barefoot. The floors are all very smooth and cool, so right now, especially after walking all day and being hot, cool, bare floors feel quite amazing. Let's see how I feel in winter, eh?

I cooked my first official meal here tonight: Pasta with chicken and veggies. It was alright. They don't have pasta sauce the way we do, so I'm going to have to go look for it. The bonus is that I can mix in whichever herbs I want to produce a flavor of sauce. The kitchen seems pretty well equipped, with various pots and pans. Jana and Raquel don't cook often, normally they make a salad or sandwich, so it'll probably be just me doing my thing. Janal says she's pretty nifty in the kitchen so I can't wait to taste that.

I went to my school today. Man are things hectic. They were registering students today, and apparently classes start on Wednesday. The school doesn't look ready at all. There aren't any books on the bookshelves, the desks are all scattered. I met with some of the teachers that I will be helping this year and they all seemed really tense and pissed off about the changes in the bilingual programs this year. But MC is pushing ahead (that's My Coordinator for those of you who might have forgot (not Lindsay though!)). She remained firm and without too much complaining herself, which is a miracle considering the craziness she's been through. She explained a rumor that I had heard earlier in the week which states that everyone is running around all crazy because they had to fire all the teachers that couldn't pass a 5 minute random oral exam in English--even if they'd been teaching for 20 years. I'm going to try to find out more about the situation. Today the biggest issue were books, i.e.- What do you mean we can't teach with Spanish books? They have to be in English?! (No joke)

Another interesting wrench in plan is the fact that one of my teachers may not even be staying at the school! He may get moved to a different school, or he may even choose not to teach in the bilingual program. Why this should matter is that I was supposed to get my schedule today, but now I probably won't know until Monday. MC said that since we have 2 TAs (me and some other that comes in October), she'll probably make it so that one of us has Friday off and the other Monday. Can you guess which one I want? I think I'll ask her if Fridays are a possibility (I mean, I'm here earlier... right?). While there was quite a bit of tension, stress, and general dislike floating in the air, everyone was pleasant enough to me. The music teacher even invited me to a performance that she'll be doing in October, so I'll have to find out more about that.

I am beginning to realize how busy I'm going to be here--and how quickly my time will fly. Yes, right now is a little slow, but that's OK. You could call my growing list of "activities-to-try" "goals," but I think "activities to try" is a more accurate description. Therefore, my list is beginning to look like this:

• Find an intercambio (which they have all over the city) for at least 2 nights/wk
• If an intercambio doesn't work out, then I may take more language classes to help improve my Spanish (I know that sounds ridiculous (I am living in Spain after all), but trust me, it's necessary) 
• Join the Madrid Hash House Harriers for at least 2 runs per month
• Find a yoga study and take some classes
• Do some tutoring to make some extra bank
• Find some other type of exercise that I can do so that my lungs can take a break, while I still get to enjoy moving my body (I'm thinking dance classes!)
• Join an Ultimate Frisbee team here in Madrid with another Fulbrighter

I actually feel like there's more, but as of right now I can't remember! As you can see, I'm going to be very, very busy.

I also realize how short my time is going to be here, especially if people come to visit on the regular. I have enough for sure visits that I probably won't go more than 2 months without a visit from someone! How exciting! Among the other things I left at home (lilke, oh, I don't know, my Fulbright documents (...)), I forgot my planner, so I am looking to get one ASAP, as well as a wall calendar. 

enael

I am begining to become a madrileña

So I have officially been in Madrid for a week. At about this time last week, I was wondering around with Charleen, helping her look for apartments (pisos), tired, slightly jet-lagged, but happy. Now, a week later, I'm still tired (but not from jet-lag) and I'm still happy.

Goodness, where did I leave off? Yelling at a Spanish guy. Opps. That was last Wednesday. Since then I have slowly acquired the basic necessities of living. First I had my phone. It's nicer than my cell phone back in the States. It's touch screen. I had to switch it to English so I knew how to use it. :) That was probably the easiest thing to get. Finding a piso was an awful experience.

First, I had to find a way to stay at the orientation lodge extra nights. Luckily, another of the Fulbright girls had found housing, so I was able to swap with her. Then I spent 3 days running around, forgetting to eat lunch, hardly eating dinner, and feeling very stressed out. I didn't think it would be so hard to find a place! Fulbright made it sound very easy. What they didn't tell you was the fact that as of September 1st, all the madrileños flood back into the city and housing gets scarce. Students studying abroad

, other TAs from different programs, etc. also come into the city at this time: and they are all looking for housing! I started to feel the stress. I was worried about not finding anything by Saturday, which was when I would officially be homeless.

Finally, on Thursday, after being stood up, walking all over Madrid, crying, freaking out, and not sleeping, I found a place! It's centrally located, being a 10-15 minute walk to the main parts of town. It's also near (like try 5 seconds from my front door) a Metro stop that is on the line that I have to take to go to work. It has the biggest kitchen I've ever seen while searching (I seriously saw one that was about a yard wide) with a washer, dishwasher, oven (again a rarity), and nice stove top. My room is the smallest, but that's not a bad thing: I am paying the least. It's only €350/month with gastos (utilities) inc

luded. I had to sign a lease, and I was uncertain about it because I was 100% in love with the place. But I finally realized that a) I wasn't going to find anything and 2) it was a pretty dang good deal. I also have Internet in the house (which was a hassle at first, because my computer didn't want to connect... then I got the right password).

The worst part about my piso is that there are 5 of us here: 3 Spanish girls, 1 German girl (whose been living in Madrid for 3 years), and me. Not so bad, right? Well, the German girl (Janna) has the master suite, which means she has her own bathroom. But the rest of us lowly individuals (sarcasm) have to share one bathroom. Yikes! I haven't met the other two Spanish girls, but from what I've been told about them, it doesn't seem like we all have the same schedule. So the worst part is sharing the bathroom with 3 other people.

So, I officially have a cellphone, and abono, and a home. Next, I needed to get a bank account. That was also quite the adventure because I didn't think. It was my own stupidity and I feel dumb even admitting to what happened. Essentially, Fulbright paid us by check, and instead of getting it cashed I went and put it in the bank... on a Friday... and somehow expected to be able to get money out of it. Oopps. I could've cashed the check, but in Spain, you can't cash a check unless you go the specific bank that wrote the check. And that means I would have had to go across town, cashed it, then came back to near my piso and open and account. I just wasn't thinking, I guess. So anyway, I opened the account, deposited the check, found I couldn't get any money out, and freaked. First I went to another branch of my bank where other Fulbrighters had said they had luck,

but the people there weren't able to do anything for me (they did tell me that I could've gone to any of the branches that my check was drawn on and get it cashed...uhhhh, they tell me that NOW?!) Then I had to call Wachovia and attempt to get my daily limit raised, but that didn't work. The daily limit that they give you was just barely enough to pay the down payment for my apartment that day. Then I frantically emailed my mom. It was a mess that could have been avoided. In the end, I paid for my piso and still had enough money to eat until my check clears on Wednesday. Funny how God takes care of you.

And, boy, have I been taken care of! During this week, there have been two of me. The first is the me that resides in my body and is extremely emotional. That was the part of me freaking out, crying, wanting to throw things). The other part is like a 3rd person, who watches me, and isn't emotional, but rather saw the bigger picture. So even though I did have my freak out moments, I knew that within less than a week, I'd be fine: that I would find a place to live, that everything would be taken care of, and, in the end, I would be laughing over sangria about how stressful my first week in Madrid was. And that 3rd person is beginning to rejoin my body and taking over as the emotional side of me retreats for a while.

The last thing that I need is my N.I.E., or Spanish Identification number/the last part of my visa. Fulbright has really taken care of us in this area. They've set up a group date on the 22nd for us to all go to where ever it is that we need to go to complete the last part. And now I have everything I need to complete the forms: an officially address, a phone number, and a bank account.

I'm supposed to email my information to our contact/boss of the TAs, but I'm beginning to think that my email goes directly to her (I'll call her O) spam box. She never responded to any of my emails this summer and she hasn't responded to one I sent her recently. I'm going to call her tomorrow and see if that's the case. I also don't want to be sending my information if it isn't going to be received.

Now that I'm not so extremely stressed about finding a place or getting a bank account, I am beginning to enjoy more about Madrid. First off, the area of Lavapíes (which is something like 10 min. walk from my place) is this dingy barrio (neighborhood) that has TONS of Indian/Thai restaurants. It has an eclectic feel, and you can definitely do some interesting people watching. I've had dinner over there a few times, and have always enjoyed myself.

I also really like a place called 100 Monteditos, which is a place where they sell a 100 different types of little sandwiches for pretty cheap. They have these pamphlets with every type listed, you mark which ones you want (like a sushi bar!), and then they serve them to you! They also sell some of the biggest mugs of beer I've ever seen. It's a fun chain, so you can find them anywhere around the city, with both Spaniards and tourists chowing down.

I also was able to go on my first run. It went alright. I'm about a 6-8 minute jog from Retiro park (which is another reason I chose to live where I do, because I knew I wouldn't joke if I wasn't near the park). Retiro is a huge park (350 acres) in the middle of Madrid. It's a magically place where as soon as you enter the gates that surround it, you forget you're in a city! It was the play area of the past Spanish crowns, and today it's a place where todo el mundo (everyone) goes to relax. Or, if you're young, or old, or whatever age, you go to make out. It also has gravel paths which make running easier on the joints. I ran for a bit, but felt a little weaker later. My body still has not adjusted to all the pollution. I am researching other avenues of exercise (yoga, dance classes, etc.), but haven't given up on the idea that I could, indeed, run. I've also been looking for a running group.

Last night was also a big cultural night called La noche en blanco. Essentially the entire city was open all night and everything was free. They shut down one of the big streets (la Gran Via) to traffic. There were people everywhere. The theme was "let the games begin!" so they had exhibits everywhere, music, people, crowds, and part of the city was even converted into a beach! A group of 7 of us sort of wandered the streets. It was interesting. I wish we had planned a bit more (like I would have liked to have heard some jazz), but the general buzz of the city was intoxicating. There were people EVERYWHERE!

Another interesting cultural note: I would say the only other "bad" thing about the location of my apartment is that there aren't any good supermarkets around. We have a Dia nearby, but it's not very big, or well stocked. There's a Carrefour, but it's an uphill return walk of about 10 minutes. Luckily, for fruits and veggies, there are tons of fresh markets around. And then there are tons of Chinos. Chinos are the Spanish word for "Chinese," and (sadly) that's what all Asian people are to Spaniards. They are basically little stores that have a variety of things, from shampoo to kitchen equipment, pens and paper, lamps to underwear. I feel like it's very hit or miss. It's still a shock when I here some say, "Oh, yea... you can find that in a Chino!"

The last adventure for the day was timing a dry-run to my school. It takes 20 minutes on the Metro. That's it! You come up out of the Metro, and the school is across the street. I have a meeting tomorrow at 11:30, where I should be meeting the teachers I'm working with and receiving my official schedule. I'm excited to see what I'll be helping out with.

So I Yelled at a Spanish Guy....

What haven’t I elaborated on? Well, I guess we can start with the people I’ve met. First off, they all rock. Everyone has been very friendly. There is that general sense that, indeed, we should be friendly and kind to everyone, but the warmness I have encountered feels more genuine. There are two main girls that I have been hanging out with.

One’s name is Charleen and she’s from Agnes Scott! We hit it off immediately. In fact, within hours of arriving in the country, I accompanied her on her search for housing. We talked a bit about Decatur and more about life in general. Charleen has a great life, she’s intelligent, and she’s open to all sorts of ideas.

I’ve also been hanging out with Janel. Janel’s from Arizona, has been traveling/living in Thailand for most of last year, and applied to Fulbright last year and got rejected. But she made it this year, and that’s good news for me! Janel is… energy. She abounds in it. She’s electric, the kind of person that has so much movement, she has to act out her movements. She also has less volume control than I do (Can you believe it, Eldon?). Both my friends have awesome hair and a much better since of dress than me. I have met a lot more people, and some of the ones I like the best will move to Andorra (the country between France and Spain) after orientation.

I have learned A LOT about Fulbright and my expected duties in the classroom. We also got “briefed on security” today. I thought that meant they’d let us in on something cool, it really just meant that we were told all the ABCs of street smarts. I had heard most of it before. It did raise my stress level some, but I had to remind myself that I’m older, I have actually learned from my previous experiences, and that I’ll be ok.

The most interesting thing I have learned about my school is that I am one of the new schools (as I think I mentioned in my last post). I will be the first Fulbright in the school, and that means that I can set the standards for Fulbrights to come. That’s intimidating! But I think starting from scratch might be my calling, and the ESL program at Berry has helped me prepare for this. I also feel a bit silly because everyone here seems to have thought up “side project.” I didn’t think I did until I remembered that I had written a sentence or two about possible starting an English language table (thanks for the idea Eva!) with the community or the school students. When I tentatively asked about how much Fulbright expected of us in reference to the side projects, I was relieved to hear that they don’t really expect much—being a TA is the most important part. However, me being me, I have taken many ideas that I’ve heard about how to be more involved in with my students, what type of lessons I should be preparing, and ways to incorporate myself into Spanish culture. My mother and my Education friends can be expecting LOTS of calls/emails from me for help in rounding out my ideas. I also hope to join an intercambio, or language exchange partnership. Madrid does them all over bars, museums, bookstores, and other public meeting places all during the week. I apparently just have to go, and I’ll find someone! I also can tutor for up to 20 Euro/Hour! Basically there is a lot of opportunity here, and I hope that I can rise to the occasion!

A note about meeting my coordinator[1]: I mentioned that I had a beer in my hand. She had one, too. Apparently it is completely normally to drink around your supervisors outside of a school setting. That doesn’t mean that we’ll ever be the best of friends, but I don’t have to worry about her thinking something bad against her, it’s just Spanish culture. In fact, tonight we have another reception where we are meeting delegates, and apparently (according to the TAs from last year) everyone just stands around drinking… for hours….

Speaking of culture, I learned an interesting fact about Spain and Spanish criminals. As I learned in my Media Law class last year, Spain has a civil law system. A civil law system basically means that minorities are more protected and given the benefit of the doubt. This doesn’t mean there isn’t discrimination, but more the idea of preventing another Holocaust. Apparently, criminals count in the minority section, and they have rights. For example if you serve maximum term of prison (or perhaps any amount) here in Spain (25 years), you can get out and then change your identity. Not sure how I feel about that…

Finding housing has been frustrating and scary. I have a website that I’ve been using, but everyone else is also using it. Everyone also seems to be looking in the same area. If for the sole purpose of being able to get a phone a day earlier, I wish I could have arrived just one day ahead of the program. My last week in the States was great, and it was busy, but this is crazy. Luckily I’ve found a way to stay at the place where Fulbright held the orientation, but that’s only until Saturday. I am determined to find a place by then. I have two citas, or meetings, set up to visit apartments tonight, and possibly two more tomorrow. The best thing about calling people for an apartment is that you quickly get over your fear of talking to individuals over the phone. I still don’t understand everything all the time, and sometimes I don’t realize they’ve already said they’ve rented the place. This whole search has been a learning experience. I just have to keep my head up and know it’s going to be ok.

The skies of Madrid have been picturesque blue, with wispy clouds, and clear skies. But it’s all a lie and I’ll tell you how I know: I can never blow my nose enough. There’s always something up there and I sound terribly congested. It doesn’t really drain, I don’t feel sick (just tired), and I sound like I’ve been smoking 2 packs a day for 15 years. I’m hoping it’s not a sinus infection. I don’t feel the pressure in my sinuses (that’s a good sign), but the color of my…boogers, shall we say…isn’t exactly normally. (Ok, did that gross you out enough?)

On to a less gross subject: last night, after the final Fulbright reception, I went dancing with a few folks and then went to a bar. But I got tired so I returned back to the lodging. I sat down on the floor where I could actually get decent Internet reception, and took off my flip-flops so that I wouldn’t have to sit cross-legged with them on. I called Eldon and we were talking when one of the girls from Fulbright came up and asked me where her friend was. I told her I wasn’t sure and asked how her night was going. Now, you have to remember that we are being held in an all guys dorm (which has been going through hazing all week… that’s some interesting stuff, by the way). So this Spanish student walks over to Kelsey and says in a voice that you use with a small child, “Señorita…what are you doing?” And then he stares pointedly at her bare feet. Kelsey was a bit confused at first, but when she cottoned on, she explained that she was comfortable and didn’t like walking around with shoes on.

The guy didn’t take that very well. He started to raise his voice and kept asking “What are you doing?,” “But why?” I was sitting on the floor watching this entire interaction (which took like 2 minutes). Eventually he starts to walk away all huffy, and turns back to her, very serious, and says “You should be wearing shoes.” Kelsey says, “Why?” “Because you are in Spain and because you should.”

This guy is like 19 years old.

He disappears and Kelsey looks at me. I shrug and say, “It is a cultural thing, but he didn’t have to be a jerk like that.” She shrugged and walked away in search of her friend. I continued with my conversation until Mr. Spanish Guy and his friends walked by.

As they were back to their rooms, Mr. Spanish Guy walks up to me, and says, in the same voice he used with Kelsey, “Señorita…what are you doing?” while staring very intently with a disgruntled look at my flip-flops. His friends started smirking and nudging each other. He was referring to me sitting on the floor crossed-legged without my shoes on.

And then I did something that I’m not proud of, especially as a Fulbright. I think it was too late, I was still thought he was just trying to be a jerk, and I wasn’t going to have it. So I got extremely defensive, raised my voice, and said “Look, I’m sitting here talking on the phone, and I don’t want to wear my shoes while I’m sitting down. Is that a problem with you? (at this point Mr. Spanish Guy starts to back away) I understand that it’s a cultural thing, but I don’t walk around without shoes, but if I want to, I’m going to sit here without my shoes on. Do you have a problem with that?” As I finished he had run away and his friend was shushing me.

The only thing I’m proud of is that I did it all in Spanish. I realize that I didn’t have to be such a jerk: I lowered myself to his level. I just didn’t want to take any crap. Later, as I was rehashing it, I realized I could have invited him to discuss culture with me. There’s a part of me, though, that makes me think he may not have listened, though.

I may be here as a foreigner, but I’m not stupid. If you want to teach me about your culture, please do, but please don’t assume that I’m ignorant. Sadly, I, from what I’ve gathered at several of the sessions during orientation, I might have to deal with just such an attitude while I’m here. I guess I just have to make sure I learn from my mistake.

---

[1] I am having a tough time deciding whether I should make up fake names for my teachers/supervisors because this IS the Internet. I have learned her name (and, yes, my coordinator has officially changed three times since I received my Fulbright grant), but for now I will simply refer to her as my coordinator (MC).

"How Do I Know What I Think Until I See Myself Say It"

I'm definitely getting more settled, and it's a good feeling. Today was the first day of orientation. Basically I sat around and was overloaded with information. I learned a bit more about my responsibilities as a Fulbright TA and what to expect.

My school is in the south-eastern part of the city. I'm in la zona A, or main part of the city Metro system. Some people have to go more into the suburbs for their schools. They've opened som

ething like 20 new bilingual schools this year, and I'm in one of the new ones. I think this accounts for my coordinator (boss) at my school changing something like 3 times since I've become a Fulbright. Oh well, it's Spain. From what I've gathered, I am there to help make sure that English is used in the classrooms and that it is used correctly. I will be working with 6th graders, which is a little younger than I expected, but that's ok. I have an allowance of 21 days to travel outside the country. I don't have free Spanish healthcare. Instead I have to pay for everything up front and then go through an extensive reimbursement claim. The average doctor's visit is something like 40-50 euro.

Also, since my school is a new one I don't have to do "Global Classrooms," or the Spanish equivalent of Model UN. This is something that I am half glad to be missing (as it has been described as one of the most frustrating things you'll ever do) and half sad that I can't do it because I was looking forward the challenge. Because the school is new to the bilingual program, they just want to make sure that everything goes well with the English part before they start the Global Classrooms. Instead, I'm thinking of implementing something similar to a language table or ESL for the teachers to help

them improve their own confidence in English.

I met the coordinator of my school today! I didn't even know I was going to, so I was wearing some random clothes and didn't feel very together. I also had a beer in my hand. So how did that happen? Well apparently, after the last session of the day, there was a reception downstairs with refreshments. I must have missed that coordinators would be there: I just went to go get a snack (yes, mom, beer is a snack). Next thing I know, the Fulbright head I've been in contact with was like "Are you Samantha Hhheeenuur?" "uh... yes" "You're coordinator is here! Come! Come!" I was so miffed I missed her name.... but I caught that it was different from the person whom I thought was my coordinator. The poor woman is swamped. She just got put in the school, she hasn't meet the staff, and doesn't even know what type of student demographic I'll be working with. I hope I made a good impression, I think we talked for 15 or 20 minutes. I liked her. She's studied English and she has a very soft accent. I think that'll be good when I just need something explained, but I'm hoping I'll be able to speak more Spanish with her. She liked the idea of the language classes for the professors.

Orientation was exciting and nerve racking. There's so much to do! I feel so unprepared. I still have to find an apartment and open a bank account. But luckily I went with a new friend, Janal, tonight and got a phone and an abono, or monthly Metro pass. So it was a busy day. Now I just need to get to some more serious issues. I have a yoigo phone which is the cheapest plan and cool phone (see pic!).

The weather in Madrid has been wonderful. The days are clear and bright, often with a breeze. Mid-day can be hot, but mornings and evenings are downright pleasant. My room at the orientation lodge is nice. A little stuffy, so I've been leaving my window open. The food they serve here is basic cafeteria stuff, but I can't complain since it's free.

I'm trying to keep updated with everything that's going on, who I'm meeting, etc... but it's almost 12am and I still need sleep! I will try to keep you updated!

I am thinking of you!

enl

And so my new life begins....

I left the States as the sun was going down. The sky was streaked with oranges, pinks, purples, and blues. It was beautiful. Fittingly, we arrived in Madrid as the sun was coming up. I feel like I've had a symbolic rebirth. My plane partner was from Madrid, and I started my flight speaking all Spanish.

The plane ride was easy. I have to say, though, I think I'm over plane rides. I slept some, so that was good. My amigo (whose name I never got), is a couple of years older than me and plays soccer for one of the teams here. His brothers go to Mercer, where he had just finished visiting for 3 months. He's trying to join a US team (do we even have a US team? ;) ), and move to the States. I didn't really watch any movies (though there were quite a few good looking ones), because they had to reset the system, which messed up my personal screen. (Natalie will remember the same incident on our plane ride to Madrid last time) But it was no biggie; I read and napped.

When we landed, I began the long trek to baggage claim. From what I have experienced about flying into Madrid internationally, you get off the plane and you just start walking. You see glass, walking sidewalks, and lots of hallway. It's a good 5-8 minute walk until you finally descend a small flight of stairs and hit the passport check. Passing through was easy enough. The lines were long.

Before I left, I contacted another Fulbrighter and planned to meet her and two others in the baggage claim area. I was worried that since the plane had left late, they would head on without me, but I caught the eye of two Americans, and after a quick introduction, I found my other Fulbrighters! We ended up being 5 strong (2 other girls joined in once they heard us talking), and we never did find the girl that organized the first of us. The taxi ride was easy enough, as was check-in. Now I'm sitting in the lobby of the dorm where orientation is and about to head back to my room for a shower and a nap.

Lunch is served at 2pm (eerrrgghh), and I'm thinking that after lunch, I will get a few others together and we can go walk around in some of the neighborhoods to see where I want to live! I realize now that I've been hoping Fulbright will help me find a place--but I'm beginning to think it will be mainly my own responsibility! Scary! But I've already met people who have got a place and they say it's been a fairly easy process.

But: "Not for now, for later"--Nap